This is the first book about surfing ever written by a philosopher. The author, a 70-year-old surfanatic, has been Professor of Philosophy at Boston College for over 40 years and has written 50 other... This description may be from another edition of this product.
This book is very well-written and contains some real spiritual and philosophical gems. However, the author reveals towards the back of the book that he is a bodyboarder and not a stand-up surfer. The author argues that bodyboarding is closer to surfing a wave than stand-up surfing. Is bodyboarding really "surfing?" This is the question that the reader must decide for themselves. Regardless, the book is an enjoyable read to anyone interested in the spiritual, cerebral, and emotional states of surfing.
A Fun Read, Not especially philosophical but
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 16 years ago
I am a California Standup surfer. Dr. Kreeft is one of the primary reasons I am Roman Catholic. I listen to a MP3 of one of his lectures downloaded from [...] almost every lunchtime business day. Dr. Kreeft has a lot of fun writing this book. I enjoyed reading it. It is not a philosophy book. For that read Philosophy of Jesus or The Sea Within. However, if you surf, love the ocean, know God, you will enjoy this book. As a Californian and as a Standup surfer there are issues between me and Dr. Kreeft that I am sure will be ironed out through God's grace at our Purgatory.
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