Having walked down the Appian Way for his acclaimed book Between Two Seas, Charles Lister found himself irresistibly drawn to the land of contrasts that is the extreme south of Italy. Lister had planned to travel by bicycle, but an Italian said he was mad and insisted he take his moped. He travelled extensively, as engaged by the wines of the region and the beauty of the local women as by the plethora of temples and the weight of history. In captivating prose, he reveals it to be a place haunted by its extraordinary past--once great and famous, still beautiful, and in places, now tragically abandoned.
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